1998 Cannondale Disassembly Details & Notes for Reassembly

This page was created for the buyer of our '98 Cannondale -- or, more specifically the bike shop who was going to take delivery and re-assemble the bike on its arrival. This is really an example of how you can do two things:

1. How to prep a tandem for shipment that you have sold to someone long-distance.

2. How to leverage digital photography & a web site to communicate detailed instructions.

You can also read more detailed information regarding how to pack a small sized tandem for shipment via UPS at THIS PAGE

 

Packing List

 

Tandem ready for disassembly.

 

Note zip tie location: extra red zip ties are in baggie with computer pick-up and wiring for re-installation

 

Note where pick-up goes. Rubber gasket in baggie is installed with clamp. You may want to put some electrical tape on the wiring where it runs through the pick-up clamp; looked like bare wires were showing.

 

Computer pick-up, wiring, zip ties & rubber gasket are all in this baggie; install LAST.

 

Rear derailleur has been removed, but is properly adjusted and still connected to shifters. Once derailleur hanger is reinstalled, just re-attach rear derailleur.

 

Spacers behind stoker seat tube H2O bottle cage are there to allow installation of bottom pull, LX bottom swing front derailleur. I installed XT top swing which works fine -- just remember to tell your stoker to "lighten up" on the pedals when you are shifting from the middle ring into the small ring.

 

Front V-brakes have been removed from fork. You will find them zip tied together inside of a baggie attached to the front handlebars. The post bolts are in the fork's brake bosses.

 

Note that the Front Derailleur cable is the only cable routed down the Left side of the head tube (left in this view, but the right side of the tandem). The Rear Derailleur & Rear Brake cable must be routed down the Right Side. Route the cables BEFORE you install the top fork bracket.

 

Here you see the mummified handlebars. Inside are the V-brakes & the computer pick-up for the computer.

 

Front fork is removed. The headset has been put in two places.

 

A: Lower 1/2 of the headset with gasket, outer race, bearing ring & inner race; grease before re-installing.

B. Note that a 1 cm spacer is intalled on top of the headset and below the upper fork clamp.

C. One small spacer sits on top of the triple fork clamp and then the other three (all held together with electrical tape) sit on top of it, but below the stem.

 

The upper 1/2 of the headset is all zip tied in place in the headtube. It must be regreased when the fork is reinstalled. note that there is a bearing ring, and upper race with a gasket seal, and then the lock collar.

Although not pictured, you'll find a "star nut" like component installed in the fork's steering tube that is located under the headset cap. You unscrew the cap from the locking devise which has it's own bolt.

 

Self explanatory; you release the quick release and then pull the PVC off of the skewer.

 

The rear derailleur hanger is wrapped up in bubble wrap in the crotch of the rear seat & chain stays. You'll find two small screws in the hanger that you must remove and then use to reinstall it on the rear drop out. install the rear derailleur after the hanger's been installed.

 

Here it is all boxed up and ready to go. Just put on the wheels, put in the air, instal the pedals and then install the chain with the PowerLinks and it should be ready to roll.

 

In the second box you'll find everything you need to build up the bike. You'll want to unpack this box FIRST since you'll use the rear seat post to hold the tandem in the work stand, will want the tires on the bike, etc... as you go.

Several of the items in this box are "extras" that aren't used to build the tandem; they include:

Extra rim; extra hub (blown); extra used tires; extra chainrings & timing rings; extra front derailleur.

 

THAT'S IT... here they are ready to go. Please call if you have any questions duirng the assembly process. It's fairly straight forward.

Minor Notes:

On the fork, you'll find the rebound adjuster cap has several white marks on it. 1 = slowest rebound and II = fastest rebound. Don't worry about the crack in the plastic cap; it was there when I bought the tandem and hasn't gotten any worse.

Your Cannondale Tandem Owner's Manual is on line at Cannondale's website:

The owner's manual for the Moto FR fork is also on line:

You might want to lighten up the pre-load adjustment on the front fork if you find that it rides too harsh. We rode some pretty heavy duty terrain so I have the spring compressed all of the way down. You just pop off the small plastic cap and insert a long 4mm T-handle allen head wrench into the top of the spring tower and turn the wrench either clockwise (tight) or counterclockwise (loosen) to adjust the preload.